Exploracation: Art According to Santa Fe

Santa Fe, New Mexico is art central and there are more art galleries here vying for attention than college kids during spring break in Florida. But twice a year the Spanish Colonial Market arrives, heavy with emphasis on cultural identity and a respect for the past. So with a formidable arts community replete with contemporary perspectives already in place, why would you need a throwback to a centuries-old art form?

The answer is simple: heritage. The Spanish Market, begun in 1926, is held only two times annually, in the summer and winter, though the summer market is by far the most popular and, frankly, the best time to visit Santa Fe. The point of the market is to sustain the cultural and artistic heritage of local artists and it does this quite handily. Over 200 artists have booths lining multiple streets, and crowds are in excess of 50,000 over the weekend. The clear focus is what is called the Spanish Colonial Market, (though there is a contemporary artists section as well.) Many of these traditional artists, who must be at least one-quarter Hispanic, do not have galleries in the crowded confines of Santa Fe, which is already home to about 250 art galleries.

Retablos

So this makes an ideal time to meet these artists in person, talk to them about their work and find something you may not see in the traditional galleries. Since there is a focus on the artistic heritage of New Mexico, you’ll find a plethora of religious iconography; retablos, crosses, tinwork, carving, jewelry, all with spiritual connotations. Back in the day it was the santero, a maker of images of saints in either a three-dimensional carvings called bultos, or paintings on a substrate, typically wood, known as a retablo, who were the chief artisans in the villages here. Santeros were itinerant artists, going from church to church and village to village to offer their work, dating back to the 1700s. It was their vision and handiwork that adorns many of the historic buildings. These days retablos and bultos are still made by hand and are extremely popular. But also represented are the Native American cultures with pottery, weaving and jewelry. It is, in the best sense, a culmination of cultures and customs; an artistic expression of what defines the Southwest.

Bultos

The contemporary arts section, some of which has a decidedly hip take on the traditional retablo for example as well as non-religious art, is a perfect adjunct to the traditional. Some art here pushes the boundaries, some is sanitized and safe, but it is all wonderful and exhilarating to be in a place where the artist is honored; where art is still considered a noble calling.

But visiting Santa Fe also means exploring outside of town and Pecos National Historical Park is a must stop; a confluence of history, hopes and freedom, fear and repression. 12 separate Indian pueblos were once here which eventually consolidated into a single large pueblo with 2,000 inhabitants. Then the Spanish showed up and you can guess where things went from there. At Pecos the demarcation lines of the old pueblo are clearly visible – set atop the highest point to view whoever came their way. Certainly they saw the Spanish coming, but could not have foreseen what their future would become. The Spanish built a massive church close to the pueblo, and the remains from the early 1700s adobe are still here. To walk the area is to be transported back in time. It’s a mere 30 minutes from Santa Fe, but worth the drive. About 30 minutes in the other direction is the Santuario de Chimayo, one of the most visited pilgrimage sites in the

U.S.

The old pueblo church still stands, albeit slightly lopsided, and worshippers and visitors come to claim some of the “holy dirt” which they believe aids in their healing.

A modern art form compliments the traditional

The Spanish Market is a two day event and it’s advisable to stay within walking distance of the downtown core for easy access. There are plenty of places to lodge for the night, but to make certain you are immersed in the Santa Fe culture, forgo traditional chain hotels lacking personality, and consider either the Hotel St. Francis, or Hotel Chimayo, both in downtown Santa Fe. Hotel Chimayo is steps from many of the museums and the old Mission, and the property retains the classic Southwest feel and the accent work, from wrought iron, to tile to woven rugs were all done by local artists. The St. Francis recalls the Franciscan period when the Missions and the Spanish dominated the region. The hotel, originally from the 1920s, has small historic rooms, and a monastery-like lobby. Both have in-house restaurants and the St. Francis has an energetic bar with live music. Visiting Santa Fe means that you’ll not only walk away with art for your home, you’ll leave with an appreciation for other cultures as well.