3.29.2013

Only On Oahu Part II: Sharks, Mai Tais & the Family Jewels

 
Honolulu has always been decried as “L.A. on the beach.” Sure, it’s a big city, however Oahu is also an island loaded with many cool things to do which vacillate between the obvious, and the lesser known. Of course there is Pearl Harbor, which includes the Arizona Memorial, as well as the battleship Missouri, which is fascinating because this was where the U.S. and the Japanese signed the treaty to end WWII. Located on the port side of the ship is a plaque commemorating this historic events, as well as additional historical info. But there is much more to consider on Oahu.

DO
The Iolani Palace, downtown Honolulu, was built in 1882 and brags that it’s the only royal residence in the United States. That’s because back in the day Hawaii was ruled by a king. The Hawaiian Kingdoms’ last two ruling monarchs both lived here. The tour is limited; just parts of the two-story interior, but there is a comprehensive museum in the basement.

 



Though the palace is architecturally beautiful from the inside and outside, it’s the museum that really sells this visit. Old photos, state jewels (the Royal Order of Kamehameha Knights Grand Cross and Collar is pictured here), dinnerware, military and ceremonial swords and a history of the odd relationship the Hawaiian Islands have had with everyone. 
From a royal palace to a Buddhist temple, Byodo-In Temple near Kanohe is called the “best kept secret” but once you arrive and see the tourists , well it’s not all that secret. Patterned after an ancient temple in Japan, this baby was built without the use of nails. Start by ringing the 3-ton brass prayer bell. From there the temple can be entered, but it’s meant for quiet reflection, not noisy conversation so turn off your cell phones. There is a small gift shop, koi pond, and beautiful visuals. Is it worth the drive up to the leeward side of the island? I’d say yes if you have something else planned in the vicinity.


The –obviously - great thing about Honolulu is the water – specifically being underwater. I don’t surf, but I do scuba and a wreck dive 120 feet down, just a few miles off the coast of Honolulu with Rainbow Scuba was a fantastic experience. They do everything for you, and guide you down, through, and around the wreck site, in our case a boat from the 1950s. This was my first wreck dive and frankly a whole lotta fun. Plus this water is way warmer than my home in Santa Barbara.


At North Shore Shark Adventures in Haleiwa you can get in a protected cage and hang out with sharks – and you don’t need any special gear. The boat takes you 3 miles out and they will get 6 of you in a (very safe) cage with snorkel equipment, which means you’re barely under the surface, but are close to these fascinating and beautiful animals. Sadly, people demonize sharks, and should you chose to be willfully ignorant, you’ll never understand these creatures (nor anything else in life for that matter). There were four sharks during our 15-minute drop down under the warm Pacific. The sharks won’t hurt you and hanging out with sharks in their home is unbelievably awesome. They do not add chum to the water to attract the sharks, they naturally move to the boat when they hear the hum of the engines.

Wreck diving
EAT
As a restaurant reviewer I’m always looking for authentic food native to where I am. Two picks worth mentioning: Helena's Hawaiian is located in a crappy strip mall and is a small space which has seen better days but the food is terrific and cheap. Butterfish and pork wrapped in poi leaves then steamed gives this an earthy subtle tobacco note. The pork is smoky wonderfully moist and very flavorful. The Pipikaula short ribs are meaty, fatty and rich. You won't find many tourists here and that’s exactly the point, this is excellent traditional Hawaiian food.
As a stark contrast to that, Sushi Sasabune has some of the most incredible sushi I’ve had buy you pay dearly for it. The best option is to go with their 13-course dinner. Yes, 13 courses, but you can stop whenever you like. This is not an order off-the-menu thing (though you can do that) they will bring you what they want and even tell you the preferred way to eat it. Some folks don’t like being told how to eat their food, but when you’re in the hands of a sushi master, don’t argue. We went back the next night too.

DRINK
The Mai Tai is the quintessential drink on the islands: maligned, mocked and most are sticky sweet, weirdly viscous and plied with so many fruit and flowers it looks like a parade. After seeking out every iteration across Honolulu, I had that eureka moment. Located inside the Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel, the 1944 Mai Tai made at Tiki’s Grill & Bar uses Cruzan Estate Light Rum, Myers Dark Rum, Orange CuraƧao, Orgeat Syrup and fresh lime juice, then topped with Passion Fruit Foam (made with Licor43 - a Spanish liqueur made of fruit juices and vanilla) passion fruit puree, pasteurized egg whites, and the juice of a lemon. This is killer. You get the mellow rum, a hit of tangy citrus from the juices and the delicate addition of passion fruit seals the deal, adding a flavor dimension, making this mai tai immensely drinkable.

Distilled in downtown Honolulu, made from local island sugar cane, and then filtered through lava rocks, Hawaiian Vodka has a creamy viscosity, a unique sweetness backed by a rich maple, almost rum-like note with a minimal burn and small wisps of mint. The lava, actually a large cube of crushed lava rock, and the copper pot still work their magic to create a very fine and unique version of how cool vodka can be. Currently it’s only available on the islands but will hopefully make its way to the mainland. Distiller Dave Flintstone is having a tough time keeping up with demand. Pick up a bottle locally or ask for it at a bar.

To make your time easier on Oahu consider the Go Oahu card, a valuable asset to get discounts to many traditional activities and sights on Oahu (Iolani Palace, Pearl Harbor and museums) as well as things you may not have thought of. Using it wisely you’ll save yourself some cash. 
For hikes around Honolulu check out my other post On Oahu: HIKING HONOLULU


And Watch my “2 Minute Travel” video I shot On OahuON OAHU VIDEO

The Battleship Missouri at Pearl Harbor

3.01.2013

Washington in Winter: Cool Mount Vernon


Mount Vernon, George Washington's impressive Virginia estate, was never on a short list of things to see. But working near the area it seemed like a reasonable way to spend a Sunday afternoon. I went with few expectations - I’m sure it’s “interesting” and filled with dry historical information, right? - but I came away with a deeper, more profound appreciation for the turbulent times our country faced when it was founded; not to mention a huge amount of respect for what our fore-bearers had to contend with, and how they overcame obstacles and created success – and by today’s accounting of humanity, well, I doubt many people now would have succeeded then.

There is a surprising amount of things to do at Mount Vernon, quite frankly a terrific value for the standard $17 admission fee including the grounds, the museum, the rotating exhibits, and the house itself. There’s also a restaurant on site which, though not spectacular, does provide good food at decent prices. If you’re the kind of person who likes to spend money, the extensive gift shop has everything Washington: from kitschy refrigerator magnets to high end tableware and books: lots and lots of books about the man.

I visited in the cool of February when the spectacular gardens were not leafed out, an elegant desolateness to the place, perched on a hill above the Potomac River as if God himself had decreed it should be so. The estate has large wide paths for walking and strolling with plenty of room for strollers and wheelchairs. It's peaceful out here; a softness in the brisk winter breeze when the summer crowds are not yet in full force.
The Slave Cabin

The Potomac opens up before you a vast shimmering soft patch of blue and it’s clear why Washington would have made this patch of heaven his patch of heaven. You can head down to the wharf and stand on the banks of the Potomac, imagining how this river might have been over 200 years ago. Nearby is a slave cabin (Washington had many slaves who were only set free after his death) a small dirt floored cabin holding on average a family of 6. Though this is a replica, it will give you a good feel of the tight, uncomfortable quarters slaves had to live in, all while serving our first president.

Originally at about 8,000 acres, the estate was a land grant from the King of England to the Washington family in 1674 - must be nice to have those kinds of connections, which ironically failed the King ‘round about 1776. The property Washington inherited from his father was a small house which George added to considerably creating the house you visit today, close to what it was like in the 1790s. The parlor, kitchen, Washington’s office, and bedrooms are all on display. Outside there is the smoke house, greenhouse, coach house, farms, livestock, orchards and plantings…well, it goes on and on. In essence Mount Vernon in its day was run like a small corporation: lots of people, lots of buildings, and lots of management of a multitude of businesses including his distillery and farming and fishing operations. Much like today’s presidents, he had money, and lived quite well.

That aside, the best of travel is that unexpected moment when you're blindsided by a stunning sight, the taste of a certain food, a spiritual encounter, or an emotional moment.
At one point while in the last room on the tour - Washington’s office, just after my tour group had filed out - a docent described the transition from Washington’s presidency into actual democracy. Rather than a succession of kings and kingdoms and tedious run-on rule he desired a new form of government. As she mentioned that Washington did not seek absolute power but was concerned about the transition of that power, I became so moved by the simplicity of this altruism, which is the basis for our democracy that I became teary eyed. I told the docent she was making me cry. The docent too gets teary-eyed, as does my wife; three people impacted by the potential of humanity some 200+ years after it occurred. It is one of those moments you cannot script and you cannot expect. Such is the power of visiting a place: the ability of a moment to transcend a mere tourist attraction and embed in you a lasting memory. Washington died in 1799, too young as it turns out, a mere 67, yet leaving a legacy which we hold invaluable if not perhaps a little idolized.
The Liquor Box - empty!

Photos of the interiors are forbidden (yeah, well except for the shot I took of the liquor cabinet - I’m a travel writer, damn it!) but you can shoot anything outside. This is not a high-energy visit, you won’t be slammed with overload and stimulation – this is low key. Your kids can run around on George Washington’s lawn while you sit in a rocking chair pondering the Potomac. The house tours move quickly: 20 minutes when busy, a relaxed 30 minutes when it’s not busy.

But taken in its totality, Mount Vernon is a remarkable experience, one which, if you’re like me, took decades to attend to, but one which I’m glad I finally did.