In the classic
children’s book, “Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory,” chocolate is made in
a mysterious factory populated by tiny men running around who mix, stir, churn
and occasionally sing about chocolate. The reality of cocoa and its origins in
the U.S.
is far different than some Technicolor work of fiction, but none the less
entertaining. Cocoa
comes from beans grown in certain parts of the world. How it came to North
America first began in South America .
To go back to its origins, when Spanish explorer Hernan Cortez arrived in Vera Cruz, Mexico
in 1518 he found Montezuma and his
Aztec subjects drinking large quantities of chocolate, more actual cocoa than
the refined chocolate we know today. There were 12 species of the cocoa plant
which grew on the languid shores of Mexico ,
and the Spanish fell in love with it, and, as Spain
conquered everything in sight, cocoa beans were sent back to Spain where
they were introduced to the Europeans for the first time.
17th Century Cocoa Cup |
Therefore chocolate became an integral part of the Spanish
way of life in the New World and as the Missions from Texas
to New Mexico and California were established chocolate became
a considerable staple of everyday life. Mission
documents record the important use of chocolate for prestigious guests and the
padres routinely drank hot chocolate first thing in the morning. Cocoa at that time was
also a valuable commodity and many storage vessels had locks on them such as
shown in these photos. In fact this storage jar and cocoa cup date from the 17th
century and are on display, along with a few other historical cocoa items at
the New Mexico
Museum of History. People covet chocolate
today, and clearly they did half a century ago.
17th Century Cocoa Storage Jar |
Chocolate Now
These days chocolate is
imbedded into our lives is a variety of forms: hot cocoa, bittersweet, and
white chocolate, to powder sprinkled on tiramisu, to a rub for meats. In Santa Fe , New Mexico ,
there are four chocolate shops to visit and it’s always good to know you can get
hand made chocolates, truffles and other cool cocoa-inspired treats wherever
you go. But, the most interesting representation of cocoa is a small shop, Kakawa, located in downtown Santa Fe . This former
residence, now a store, creates individual chocolates, but most cool of all
creates what they call “authentic Meso-American and historic European chocolate
drinks.” Owner Tony Bennett (no, not that
Tony Bennett) helms this six year-old concept. There are hardwood floors
and this space is homey and comfortable where folks hang out and drink cocoa
while checking email or just chatting. They roast their own red chiles used in
some of the drinks (elixirs they call them) and make small batches of
chocolates, and use water, not cream, to mix into their drinks as this is more
historically accurate.
Bag 'O Chiles For Roasting |
They use agave nectar as
opposed to sugar or corn syrup because is it not only healthier, but also represents
the historic reality of Mayan cultures who used agave plants in their cooking.
Should you find yourself in Santa Fe ,
stop in to Kakawa, as they are located right downtown. Yes, the individual
chocolates are very good, but I wanted to sample the drinks. Their “Zapoteca”
is unsweetened cocoa, but not bitter, however it is thick and potent. Their
“Chili” utilizes Ancho chilis, agave, Mexican vanilla and it hits your palate
with bittersweet, then the spicy chili kicks in and slowly takes over. If you
think of these drinks in terms of American hot cocoa, you’ll miss the point.
These are sturdy drinks, thick and probably unlike what you’ve ever had before.
And the cool thing is that you can, in a way, taste history since drinking
chocolate goes back at least 500 years!
Kakawa Owner Tony Bennett |
There is actually a Santa Fe chocolate trail,
a loose collection of four chocolate shops, not a trail really at all. But the
point is that while in this historic city, one of the oldest cities in the U.S. ,
you can sample modern and historic iterations of chocolate. In fact, kind of
interesting, When the Palace of the Governors was built in 1610 in downtown Santa Fe (and still
standing mind you), it was only 92 years prior that Cortez was sipping his
first cocoa drink in Vera Cruz. Should you find yourself in Santa Fe , make it a point to stop in Kakawa,
as they are located right downtown. You can also check out the other chocolate
places: The Chocolate Smith, C.G.
Higgins, and Todos Santos.
To
learn about cocoa in Santa
Barbara , California
visit: www.CervinsCentralCoast.blogspot.com,
and enjoy your cocoa!
Drink Historic Cocoa At Kakawa |
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