Showing posts with label albuquerque. Show all posts
Showing posts with label albuquerque. Show all posts

8.31.2012

Fancy Footwork: Flamenco Struts its Stuff

Olga Pericet
Flamenco, the dance, takes its name from the bird flamingo, though it seems to have little correlation with any winged creature. Some think it’s a Mexican dance, but its origins come from southern Spain, with aspects of Moorish, Persian and gypsy cultures tightly woven together. And even though the dance is old, flamenco scholars (yes, there are some) have pegged 1820-1830 as the “birth” of what we now know as flamenco. Oddly, much about the history of the dance is still in dispute, but nonetheless, what is seen and heard on stage today will capture your imagination. I certainly did to me and now I love watching this vibrant, amazing dance. The Flamenco Festival is held each year in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Surprised? Considering the synthesis of cultures in Albuquerque - represented by Spanish, Mexican, and even American Indian, and the city’s deep desire to support cultural heritage, it’s no wonder the best Flamenco dancers in the world come here to teach and to entertain during a week long celebration of all things Flamenco.

Albuquerque provides a great backdrop to visit the festival, with plenty of museums (consider the Anderson-Abruzzo International Balloon Museum), chili topped food (El Pinto is terrific) and plenty of culturally significant things to see and do (consider visiting the Acoma Pueblo – the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in North America). Evening performances run every night of the festival, and by day hundreds of eager dancers, some novices, some seasoned, some perhaps rusty, don tattered clothes and fill the Carlisle Gym on the University of New Mexico campus, just off historic Route 66 to dance their way into a shared visceral experience.

Understanding Flamenco
Flamenco is probably the most versatile and multi-faceted dance there is. It is at once a dance and a synthesis of music, including dancers and musicians. But Flamenco is also playful; dancers interact with the audience, and with the others on stage; truly a collaborative effort. Obviously the dance is the focal point, but there is singing, the guitar and the palmas (rhythmic clapping) - layers of artistry at work, each contributing to the overall experience. And Flamenco also has a diversity of styles, from traditional to modern stylistic approaches with elements of improvisation. The word you hear most often associated with Flamenco is “passion.” But the liberating aspects of Flamenco are more than passion, they are primal, eternal, and they are timeless. I need to mention about the singing, as some people don’t understand it. There is often a sorrow in the singing, which translates to an almost crying when you hear it, a sad convulsing type of sound.
Rafael Campallo

Watching Flamenco
There are no traditional “strong male/weak female” roles as you see in other dances. What I love about Flamenco is that there is confidence and assertiveness, sexuality and sensuality by both men and women. Group dances of necessity are choreographed, but solo and duo performances contain plenty of improvisation. An example of this was when renowned dancer Adela Campallo lost her hair clip during a frenzied moment at the 2012 festival. Realizing it was dead center on stage, (the audience too was keenly aware) she gracefully maneuvered herself into position, picked it up, incorporated it into her dance and put it back in her hair without breaking her staccato movement, and to the thunderous applause of the audience. Solo performances like hers can run as long as 20 minutes, a physical challenge for any dancer and a drain on legs and feet, however the complete submersion into the dance, the near hypnotic dedication is fascinating to watch.
Alfonso Losa

Learning Flamenco
Joaquin Encinias, Associate Director of the National Institute of Flamenco, started dancing when he was four. During the festival he teaches classes including one for beginners, showing them the basics, offering the most comprehensive method of Flamenco instruction in the country. “Flamenco is the study of music, nuance and culture as much as it is a study of movement,” he tells me during a break. “It’s a deeper experience that I think a lot of Americans are starving for,” he says. Ricardo Anglada has been teaching guitar for four years at the festival and tells me that the guitar, though now the primary musical instrument, was introduced to Flamenco after singing and palmas made their way into the dance. “That’s the beauty of Flamenco, it’s always changing and it adapts to other styles,” he says. “Flamenco today is more versed in musical variations, incorporating elements of jazz and blues,” he tells me. And this was clearly evidenced on stage, where there is a freedom of musical expressions. But mainly people come to see and feel the dancing which is both fluid and staccato, aggressive and graceful, powerful yet lyrical. And the beauty of the festival is that it allows anyone to learn. When I mention to one teacher that I’m a middle aged, slightly heavy-set male who is enthusiastically intrigued by Flamenco, she interrupts me. “You’re never too old and never too heavy,” she retorts. “I’ve seen heavy gypsies’ who will amaze you.” (I guess that was something of a compliment.)

Perhaps Flamenco is beckoning you. Perhaps you see in the dance a longing reflected in your own soul. And then, who knows, you might find yourself in Albuquerque at the Carlisle Gym with dancers from across the globe exploring an art form as old as time and as vibrant as today. National Institute of Flamenco

Check out my exclusive video I shot at one of the performances. Cameras are not allowed during performances, though I was permitted to film. This 6 minute video is a rare chance to see what you’re missing:Exclusive Highlights of the Albuquerque Flamenco Festival


4.13.2012

Ski New Mexico - Part 1: Family Fun


New Mexico and skiing: two ideas that don’t seem to belong in the same sentence. New Mexico conjures up images of flat desert and, yes, there are large swatches of arid, dry land that are beautiful in their own right. But the Rocky Mountains end, or begin depending on your perspective, in Northern New Mexico, and these ski areas have enviable proximity to world class destinations like Santa Fe and Taos. You can easily fly into Albuquerque, then rent a car and be on the slopes in a few hours. There are a number of ski areas and this post and Part II will focus on just four: Angel Fire, Ski Santa Fe, Taos Ski Valley, and Red River.

The views at the top of Angel Fire are stunning
The Hills Are On Fire
Angel Fire Resort is a low key, family-oriented spot, incredibly inexpensive offering skiing, cross-country skiing, snow-shoeing, tubing, and in the summer months this year-round resort offers horseback riding, mountain bike trails, eight tennis courts, golf and disc golf. Situated at 10,000 feet and so named by the Navajo for the brilliant sunsets and sunrises, Angel Fire is a two-hour drive from Santa Fe. There are a total of 67 runs and the top runs start about 10,500 feet. High season gets crowded as people return regularly because there is literally so much to do here, and it’s a perfect family getaway with plenty of lodging at the base. There is an indoor pool, hot tub, free wireless, live music on weekends, and even childcare. Angel Fire is privately owned and is the only resort in New Mexico to offer night-time skiing and tubing. Each year they also have the Shovel Race – and I think you can see where this is going: people launch down runs racing on shovels. 
Boarders and Skiers share the slopes in New Mexico
Seriously. There are six restaurants on site, most with average fare, but if you want a more upscale feel, their signature restaurant, Elements, will give you a fine dining experience in a sophisticated environment. For the curious, like me, they offer Nordic skiing, AKA cross-country. If you ski, you might think the 10 miles of outdoor trails will be easy to navigate. Yes, cross-country seems more like walking on skis and looks simple, but the reality is this offers a strong cardio component, and takes some time to get used to as Nordic skis are pencil thin. I didn’t fall as much as I thought I would, but after a brief training I did OK, and so will you. Cross county is also more serene, you don’t have borders and skiers passing you at breakneck speeds.

Big Mountain – Small Town
Then there is Red River, a small town of about 500 people whose population explodes during ski season. What makes Red River desirable is that the whole mile-long town is fully integrated into the slopes, meaning that about 80 percent of all the lodging is within a five block walk to the dual quads which take you directly up the mountain. In addition to winter skiing, snowboarding and tubing, there is summer tubing and an 18-hole disc golf course. The ski area is a throwback; completely low-tech with old hand written ski forms, but there is something comforting about the old-school approach. They have the widest runs for beginners and overall this is a great spot for intermediates. But Red River is also the only place to get on a snow mobile and take off to the Kit Carson Wilderness and explore with a guide on the back of a machine. Snow mobiles are not simple machines either, they do take some upper body strength to maneuver, but once at the top of the mountain, they let you loose in an open meadow where you can get your snowmobile up to about 40 mph – something that was way cool. You ascend in the late afternoon after the runs shut down, and return in the dark. Prices start at $70 for a two-hour tour and if you’ve never done it – this is the place for it. 

The Lift House at the base of the Platinum Chair run
On Saturday evenings in season you will be able to watch the Torchlight Parade which begins around 7:15 p.m. Skiers holding flares ski down the lower slope of the Platinum Chair circling back and forth creating an orange colored light show – a weaving graceful ballet of amber lights. It’s brief but fun and occurs only here. There are plenty of hotels and condos to stay at: I stayed at the Ponderosa Lodge, a three block walk to the lifts, and I have to say, though Ponderosa is not a spanking new property, it has a rustic feel with a stone fireplace and full kitchenette. The Lift House (at the base of the run) has fine bar food, and Capo’s is a family run Italian place with large portions and friendly staff. Texas Red’s Steakhouse is just that – lots of meat; all good places to satisfy your hunger after a long day.

Wide runs at beautiful scenery at Red River
The unique part of skiing in New Mexico is the friendly people, the lack of pretentiousness and the genuinely terrific runs and views. Lift tickets are routinely 20 percent cheaper in New Mexico than most other areas, and the diversity of these ski spots, and their reasonable proximity to each other, means you can visit all four in a week. They may be slopes less traveled, but are worth checking out.

WHEN YOU GO
www.AngelFireResort.com, (800) 633-7463
www.RedRiverSkiArea.com, (800) 331-7669

For my 2 Minute Travel Video recorded at Angel Fire Resort, Click here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WO3cLCJW3Y0&feature=plcp


3.30.2011

Albuquerque: Can You Keep It Up?

It’s safe to say that Albuquerque, New Mexico, is not on most people’s top 10 travel list, maybe not even their top 100. Yet the “Land of Enchantment,” (yes, that’s what they call themselves) is anything but rehashed Southwest scenery and redundant Mexican food. Albuquerque is a surprisingly diverse city offering abundant outdoor and cultural experiences and stunning visuals. Albuquerque is home to parts of iconic Route 66, but there is also the Balloon Fiesta, the International Flamenco Festival and such terrific food that you’ll never look at a chili the same way again.

The Rio Grande River


Albuquerque is an old city, dating from 1706. Hot-air balloons are relatively new and are the big draw. An hour-long balloon ride above the Rio Grande River flanked by the Sandia Mountains is the classic experience. As you lift off the ground you don’t even feel like you’re moving and the ascent is similar to an elevator, a barely noticeable movement. Usually the balloons hug the ground at first to get you acclimated then will float up to about a thousand feet, some climbing even higher. It’s a myth that rides are tranquil and serene. Well, they are actually, with the exception that every two minutes a fierce blast of propane into the balloon is required to keep you buoyant, and everyone can appreciate that.


The views from the Sandia Tramway are totally impressive

The other sky high adventure worth checking out is the Sandia Tramway which transports you from the base of the Sandia Mountains all the way to the pinnacle at over 10,000 feet. The 15 minute enclosed tram ride takes you above the Cibola National Forest where the views from the limestone capped granite are absolutely staggering. On clear days there are 11,000 square miles laid out like a tapestry before you. But the best part is the ride itself where you can see the forested mountains and you’re looking down on 60 foot pine trees and 150 foot tall shards of massive granite rock formations which appear as mere toothpicks as you glide past.


The Acoma Pueblo, home for a 1,000 years

 Not as high but just a cool, the Acoma Pueblo is the very first high rise as it were, 376 feet up in the air on a granite table in the middle of a beautiful and remote valley. This American Indian community is the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in all of North America and is believed to have been settled around 1150 AD. The Spanish forcibly took control of the pueblo, and the Indians, as they began dominating the West. That’s why tours start with the Mission church which dates from 1629. Native American’s still live atop this mesa, as they have for nearly a thousand years and the tour takes you through, literally, the backyards of the Acoma Pueblo and its people. You’ll stop every so often so you can buy handmade pottery and water (it can get brutally hot) but the commercial feel of the tours seems in direct contrast with the spiritual nature of the place. A bus drives you up and back to the top of the mesa, but rather than sitting in a bus on the way back, head down the original way; though narrow low cut rocks with finger holds deeply worn into the granite from a thousand years of use. There are supreme visuals here; multi-colored rocks rising up around you with dramatic and jagged edges. It’s a short climb to reach the bottom of the road, about 15 minutes, and it’s not strenuous.

Don't miss these views. Hike down from the Acoma Pueblo.

Killer bison enchiladas!

Back on terra firma, the food in Albuquerque is awesome. The common question asked nearly everywhere you eat is, red or green? What many tourists don’t know is that chilies vary in intensity and heat, from timid to bracingly spicy. Therefore always ask before assuming you have a palette that is immune to Albuquerque’s signature chilies. Hands down El Pinto restaurant is a must stop. Their food is universally excellent, including their chili rellenos where the chilies are dipped in egg white, flash fried and finished in the oven, making them light without the copious breading.
Casa Vieja has the best bison enchiladas and a killer veggie enchilada. And enchiladas in Albuquerque are not rolled, they are layered like a casserole, topped with sunny side up eggs which infiltrate and soak into the enchiladas making them quintessential New Mexico.

Many people still have the hankering to drive Route 66 and Albuquerque has the best preserved piece of roadway. Only a few original emblematic buildings and signs remain like the Hi-Way Motel, the Aztec Motel and
El Vado Court
. But the KiMo Theatre, built in 1927 as a movie house, is where you need to visit as this is the single best preserved piece of Route 66. Seven hand-painted murals adorn the entry, the bison skull light fixtures are original and, unapologetically (and yes, this was pre-Nazi) there are swastika motifs throughout the theatre, an ancient and once positive symbol, forever ruined, so don’t get your panties in a wad when you see them. Ultimately Albuquerque is an oasis in the dessert, a mirage that exceeds its visual promise and a trip you will remember, especially the food!
Interior motifs at the KiMo Theatre

GO

EAT

DO
Rainbow Ryders Hot Air Balloons, http://www.rainbowryders.com/
Sandia Peak Tramway, http://www.sandiapeak.com/