Only On Oahu Part II: Sharks, Mai Tais & the Family Jewels

 

Honolulu has always been decried as “L.A. on the beach.” Sure, it’s a big city, however Oahu is also an island loaded with many cool things to do which vacillate between the obvious, and the lesser known. Of course there is Pearl Harbor, which includes the Arizona Memorial, as well as the battleship Missouri, which is fascinating because this was where the U.S. and the Japanese signed the treaty to end WWII. Located on the port side of the ship is a plaque commemorating this historic events, as well as additional historical info. But there is much more to consider on Oahu.

DO

The Iolani Palace, downtown Honolulu, was built in 1882 and brags that it’s the only royal residence in the United States. That’s because back in the day Hawaii was ruled by a king. The Hawaiian Kingdoms’ last two ruling monarchs both lived here. The tour is limited; just parts of the two-story interior, but there is a comprehensive museum in the basement.

 



Though the palace is architecturally beautiful from the inside and outside, it’s the museum that really sells this visit. Old photos, state jewels (the Royal Order of Kamehameha Knights Grand Cross and Collar is pictured here), dinnerware, military and ceremonial swords and a history of the odd relationship the Hawaiian Islands have had with everyone. 

From a royal palace to a Buddhist temple, Byodo-In Temple near Kanohe is called the “best kept secret” but once you arrive and see the tourists , well it’s not all that secret. Patterned after an ancient temple in Japan, this baby was built without the use of nails. Start by ringing the 3-ton brass prayer bell. From there the temple can be entered, but it’s meant for quiet reflection, not noisy conversation so turn off your cell phones. There is a small gift shop, koi pond, and beautiful visuals. Is it worth the drive up to the leeward side of the island? I’d say yes if you have something else planned in the vicinity.

The –obviously - great thing about Honolulu is the water – specifically being underwater. I don’t surf, but I do scuba and a wreck dive 120 feet down, just a few miles off the coast of Honolulu with Rainbow Scuba was a fantastic experience. They do everything for you, and guide you down, through, and around the wreck site, in our case a boat from the 1950s. This was my first wreck dive and frankly a whole lotta fun. Plus this water is way warmer than my home in Santa Barbara.

At North Shore Shark Adventures in Haleiwa you can get in a protected cage and hang out with sharks – and you don’t need any special gear. The boat takes you 3 miles out and they will get 6 of you in a (very safe) cage with snorkel equipment, which means you’re barely under the surface, but are close to these fascinating and beautiful animals. Sadly, people demonize sharks, and should you chose to be willfully ignorant, you’ll never understand these creatures (nor anything else in life for that matter). There were four sharks during our 15-minute drop down under the warm Pacific. The sharks won’t hurt you and hanging out with sharks in their home is unbelievably awesome. They do not add chum to the water to attract the sharks, they naturally move to the boat when they hear the hum of the engines.

Wreck diving

EAT

As a restaurant reviewer I’m always looking for authentic food native to where I am. Two picks worth mentioning: Helena's Hawaiian is located in a crappy strip mall and is a small space which has seen better days but the food is terrific and cheap. Butterfish and pork wrapped in poi leaves then steamed gives this an earthy subtle tobacco note. The pork is smoky wonderfully moist and very flavorful. The Pipikaula short ribs are meaty, fatty and rich. You won't find many tourists here and that’s exactly the point, this is excellent traditional Hawaiian food.

As a stark contrast to that, Sushi Sasabune has some of the most incredible sushi I’ve had buy you pay dearly for it. The best option is to go with their 13-course dinner. Yes, 13 courses, but you can stop whenever you like. This is not an order off-the-menu thing (though you can do that) they will bring you what they want and even tell you the preferred way to eat it. Some folks don’t like being told how to eat their food, but when you’re in the hands of a sushi master, don’t argue. We went back the next night too.

DRINK

The Mai Tai is the quintessential drink on the islands: maligned, mocked and most are sticky sweet, weirdly viscous and plied with so many fruit and flowers it looks like a parade. After seeking out every iteration across Honolulu, I had that eureka moment. Located inside the Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel, the 1944 Mai Tai made at Tiki’s Grill & Bar uses Cruzan Estate Light Rum, Myers Dark Rum, Orange Curaçao, Orgeat Syrup and fresh lime juice, then topped with Passion Fruit Foam (made with Licor43 - a Spanish liqueur made of fruit juices and vanilla) passion fruit puree, pasteurized egg whites, and the juice of a lemon. This is killer. You get the mellow rum, a hit of tangy citrus from the juices and the delicate addition of passion fruit seals the deal, adding a flavor dimension, making this mai tai immensely drinkable.

Distilled in downtown Honolulu, made from local island sugar cane, and then filtered through lava rocks, Hawaiian Vodka has a creamy viscosity, a unique sweetness backed by a rich maple, almost rum-like note with a minimal burn and small wisps of mint. The lava, actually a large cube of crushed lava rock, and the copper pot still work their magic to create a very fine and unique version of how cool vodka can be. Currently it’s only available on the islands but will hopefully make its way to the mainland. Distiller Dave Flintstone is having a tough time keeping up with demand. Pick up a bottle locally or ask for it at a bar.

To make your time easier on Oahu consider the Go Oahu card, a valuable asset to get discounts to many traditional activities and sights on Oahu (Iolani Palace, Pearl Harbor and museums) as well as things you may not have thought of. Using it wisely you’ll save yourself some cash. 

For hikes around Honolulu check out my other post On Oahu: HIKING HONOLULU

And Watch my “2 Minute Travel” video I shot On Oahu: ON OAHU VIDEO

The Battleship Missouri at Pearl Harbor

Only On Oahu (Part 1): Hiking Honolulu

Written on the trail at Diamond Head, it's true of hikes - it's true of life

I’m not one to sit around on a wide, sandy beach, a tropical drink in my hand and stare out at the endless ocean. Sure, that’s cool for some and while in Waikiki I see lots of people plant themselves on the beach and never move. So while staying in Waikiki I indulged my need for movement. Trust me, there are plenty more than these local hikes, but these are pretty damn good. What’s fascinating to me is that you’ll see all manner of people on these hikes: short, fat, old, young, some wearing flip flops, some covered from head to foot like there were in the witness protection program. Those who look like they are in the best shape aren’t; and chances are good that some wrinkled little Asian woman will pass you going uphill. Find a pace that works for you and steadily make your way to the best views on Oahu.

The views of Waikiki from the top of Diamond Head

Diamond Head

Diamond Head is the most well-known and most visible crater from the Waikiki area, just a 10 minute drive from downtown. Its profile and name are almost iconic with Oahu. The moderate hike will take you 35 minutes to the top if you’re in reasonable shape and you have a good pace - but it's a workout - you will sweat. Part concrete walkway, part stairs and part rocky trail, the peak is just 761 feet above sea level which might seem unimpressive, but the views from the top are stunning and you can see the rim of the crater behind you. In the immediate distance there is Waikiki and Honolulu; to the east is Maunalua Bay. You need to pay to park – just $5 per car, or like many people, you can park outside this State Park and walk in for just $1. 

The trail at Diamond Head

The trail, full of stairs and switchbacks even a few hundred feet through a tunnel, was built in 1908 as a coastal defensive position. Now this park sees tons of tourists and it’s not uncommon to see buses pull up – which is why early is always better – less heat, more room to check it out. The terrain is rather sparse but if you’re there at the right times of year, you might see whales passing by far below you.

Makapu’u Point and Lighthouse

With easy access to the parking lot off Highway 72, the trail to this Lighthouse is a 40 minute walk on a paved road. Easy enough, right? Well yes, and no. That all depends on the kind of shape you’re in. No shade, heat rising off the blacktop, the only benefits are the breezes you get as you approach the windward side which eases your perspiration. 

The climb is gradual but it’s a climb. But again, the views are amazing. You can’t get down to the lighthouse, but it’s there just below you once you reach the top - its bright red dome contrasting with the endless blue of the ocean. 

The Windward side views from Makapu'u Point

You get sweeping views up the windward side including Manana Island and all across Waimanalo Bay and for my money, since there is less development on the windward side, the views are quintessential Hawaii. You can also view the backside of Koko Crater about half way up the path and clearly see how one portion of the cone has eroded over time. This is the least crowded of these three hikes and certainly the walking portion is not challenging. That falls to Koko…

Koko Crater is one of those hikes which comes with a price tag, and it ain't money. Think of Koko as a free cardio workout with a little breeze and a lot of views. Head to Koko Park and drive to the upper baseball diamond - you'll see all the cars there. The crater looms before and you can make out tiny specks flashing in the sunlight near the top. That’s when you realize those are people who are heading nearly straight up the face of this dead volcano. 

About to ascend Koko

At first the steps look simple enough. Actually “steps” isn't quite accurate – this is an old railway system used originally to haul supplies to the top where another defensive position was set up during World War II - the lonely bunker remnants still guarding the 360 degree views. The railroad ties are uneven, spaced out at peculiar intervals. Some say there are 1,000 steps, some say its closer to 1,100, frankly, after the first few hundred it doesn’t matter. Most people walk it, my wife scrambled it on all fours…well, to each his own. About half way up the railroad ties separate from the ground as they pass over a culvert. It’s not a far drop down, maybe 20 feet, but the fact that you’re already tired and now there are 30 steps over a mild drop with no hand rail doesn’t help. Some people freak, and that doesn’t help either. On my hike one 20-something girl was having a panic attack and it took the help of her friend to make it the 30 steps. Stay focused and keep moving – it’s when you stop and assess your surroundings that you begin to over think it. Frankly, it’s a little harder going down this section as your legs are wobbly and feeble, well, at least mine were. Once you cross the ‘bridge” you’re half way up the face of the crater. But the thing is - everything gets proportionally steeper, therefore, harder. 

Just a partial view from Koko

But hard isn’t the issue once you arrive at the top and you have jaw-dropping views of everything, including other islands and Hanauma Bay is just below you. And you can see past Waikiki and Honolulu as well as the Ko’Olau mountain range is behind you. Every drop of sweat (and there were many) are well spent to get here. There is minimal shade, hardly any at all, and the eroding concrete bunkers at the top are pretty cool. I timed my ascent at 45 minutes – down was longer.

Heading down Koko

As with all of these hikes, morning is best since shade is minimal, so bring a hat, water, sunscreen and a camera. Trust me, after hiking all these spots you’ll feel rather invincible and have an experience of Oahu most people don’t get. Check out this VIDEO ONLY ON OAHU I shot at Koko Crater for some way cool views!
For additional things to do make sure you read Part II of this post: ONLY ON OAHU: Sharks, Mai Tais & The Family Jewels

This sign at Koko sums up all Oahu hikes: Be Careful!