Water-Logged, Part II: Falling for Waterfalls - The Columbia River Gorge

Multhnomah Falls

The Columbia River Gorge separates Oregon from Washington and this glacially cut, volcanic rock is home to amazing, verdant green forests, trees covered with thick vibrant moss like they were wearing sweaters, and plenty of waterfalls. Why does water, falling from any height illicit a near spiritual response in us? Is it the allure and beauty of cascading water like angel’s wings? Is it the sheer massive force of something far greater then us tumbling to the earth without restriction? Whatever the reason, waterfalls are an integral part of the travel experience.

Waterfalls along the Oregon side of the Gorge are best viewed by a National Scenic Highway 30 and are as ubiquitous as pine tress here, so bring your camera. There is a peculiar sensation of driving from falls to falls, perhaps the radio blaring sequestered in your car, and then that moment you step outside and the artificial noise of the car is stunningly contrasted by the thunderous roar of the water, rather like an extreme punctuation mark. There are about 90 waterfalls along the Gorge most of which you’ll need to hike to, but there is a concentration near the mother of Gorge waterfalls, Multnomah Falls. This heavily visited falls has a 611 foot drop making it the second tallest continuously running waterfall in the U.S. Multnomah is really two falls, a 542 foot drop into a basalt rock pool, then the water passes under the beautiful Benson Bridge (built in 1914), a stone bridge which affords terrific up-close views, then plunges another 69 feet down towards the Columbia River. There is an easy half mile hike to Benson Bridge though it is all uphill. The setting of Multnomah is nearly cathedral-like, massive, grand, basalt rock forming a half moon shape towers above you, forcing you to look up. At the lip of the falls, pine trees ring the outcropping like saints looking down to the faithful. At the base there is a gift shop, which has free maps of the waterfalls, a restaurant, restrooms and plenty of parking.

Wahkeena

From the roadway you can’t see Sheppards Dell, only a sign. The parking lot leads to a paved path and only a few steps in you see the waterfall through the dense foliage. The path is about 1/8^th mile and a stone moss covered pony wall built in 1915 directs you to a small viewing area, meaning you are now halfway between the falls. You can see to your left, the water falling from further up the mountain; to your right it drops down to the floor of the dell. I found that the best views are not here at the end, but just under half way down, which allows you to see the falls through the moss laden trees and also gives you a better visual of the actual dell itself. You only get truncated views here, but the heavily forested dell is stunning.

Wahkeena Falls is perhaps my favorite, though many people pass it by since it’s not tall, forceful or well-known. But it has a certain charm all its own. It’s an easily accessible falls with a large picnic area across the road. There is a paved trail until about the last 100 feet before you reach the falls, and a small stone bridge crosses the water which gets plenty of overspray, causing moss to cover the bridge, making the whole thing look like it belongs in medieval England. There is a cool simplicity to Wahkeena.

Horsetail

Horsetail Falls is one of the few where you can scramble down a short dirt embankment and actually wade into a shallow pool of water. There is the ever popular Bridal Veil Falls with its wide cascading waterfall and rushing stream below it which takes just under a ½ mile walk to get there, but they have built a wooden viewing platform for postcard perfect views. There is also the aptly named thin and wispy Ponytail Falls, but definitely consider Latourell Falls, which is a straight drop, 24 stories down, and if you don’t mind getting wet you can hike behind the falls and see up close the fascinating and way cool geometric-shaped basalt rock, augmented by the overspray from the falls directly in front of you. Cross over the small wooden bridge and you’ll see a rudimentary path to your left and that will take you behind the waterfall. It’s slippery, wet and gusty from the force of the water, so please use caution, but it really gets you up close and personal with waterfalls in ways you can’t with the others. And there's really nothing like standing underneath a waterfall.

Latourell from the front

Latourell from behind the falls

Though tour companies will drive you to various falls for a price, you can access them all for free with a downloadable map and enjoy them on your own terms. Summer time gets crowded, and I feel spring and fall are the best times to visit. Fall is naturally cooler, but the occasional misty weather adds a dimension to the trip, a moody and beautiful enhancement. All these falls listed here are directly off Highway 30, and though a brief walk is necessary for some, most are visible from the road. Not listed here are the falls above these, which require a several mile hike. Worth noting, make certain to spend some time hiking around. The falls are all unique and different and need time to appreciate for their individual characteristics, so don’t just rush through them as if this were a task list. Download a concentrated map, or get a local guidebook to further explore the area. This is meant as a leisurely tour, not a race to see as many falls as you can within a short time.

Whichever falls you visit in the Gorge, make sure you give yourself plenty of time

For my 2 Minute Travel video recorded at Multnomah Falls, click here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1zi37XKU1Q&feature=plcp

You can get maps here: www.ColumbiaRiverHighway.com   

Water-Logged: Wet and Wild - The Columbia River Gorge (Part 1

The Columbia River Gorge, a 1,243 mile water way cut into volcanic cliffs, is a natural border between Oregon and Washington. But it’s also a natural playground, with stunning rugged beauty near Hood River, an hour east of Portland. It’s here that Lewis and Clark concluded their epic cross-country journey in 1806, and where today, epic adventures await in and on the water. There is a recreational bonanza including white water rafting, stand-up paddle boarding, waterfalls (see part 2 of this post), food cruises, kite-boarding, kayaking and virtually anything you can do on water. There are water activities for adrenalin junkies, like plunging down a 14 foot waterfall, to junk food junkies who prefer merely watching water while noshing.

The White Salmon (photo: Wet Planet)

Rapidity

The White Salmon River cuts through Washington State and empties into the Columbia River near the town of Hood River, and the narrow canyons are home to class III and IV rapids and best of all for the adventurous, a 14 foot drop at Husum Falls. Wet Plant White Water (3 hour trip, $60) starts their trips at their own private put-in where they access further upriver than anyone else. Second, once you’re finished rafting, you’re at their office, just walk across the road and you’re done, no need to transport you back to where you started. Besides, after rafting for three hours you’re wet, tired and hungry and ready to get dry. The river is stunning in its beauty with volcanic rock banks and verdant green forests. Parts are calm and serene, and parts are frenetic a wild, but the whole of the river is breathtaking. Since there are no hiking trails here, you cannot see the river any better than rafting it. Drew Parker was my guide and led me through the Triple Drop, the Staircase, and other class III rapids that will flood you with the crystal clear water of the White Salmon. We stopped a few times to stretch our legs and at one point you have the option of leaping from a 17-foot drop into the river to your raft, or follow a land-based line back towards your raft.

Emerging from the falls (photo: Wet Planet)

Either way getting on land occasionally gives you a better understanding on the river. But you’re thinking about the waterfall and are you really going to make that drop in a raft? You’re trained for this moment, rehearsing exactly what to do with specific instructions from your guide: from when you approach the falls to what to do once you head down them. Your heart will beat faster, you’ll paddle like a madman and the time from when you descend to when you pop up out of the water is mere seconds, but those seconds see you plummeting down a cascading roar of water delving nearly face first into the White Salmon, totally submerged enveloping all of you, the cold, brisk water completely invigorating you. Never has so much water gone up my nose in so short a time. Popping up from the whirlpool our raft is like toast exiting a toaster. I’ve done the waterfall twice and it’s exhilarating, awesome and slightly nerve-wracking, but it’s just so cool. I highly recommend it!

Jim and I on the Columbia

Wavelengths

“If you can walk and swim, you can do this,” says Jim Stevens, who teaches stand up paddle boarding at Big Winds, based in Hood River. Classes are an hour and a half and show you the basics of paddling which requires more understanding than you might think. Their classes ($49 all inclusive) get you on the water in no time, cruising the Columbia River up close. If you’ve seen paddle boarding from shore you might wonder what the deal is. First, it’s a quiet non-invasive way to explore rivers, lakes, oceans and here, paddle across the Columbia River up into the White Salmon River. The other aspect is that it gives you a full body workout. How hard you paddle is up to you; break a sweat, or just cruise, but it will definitely tone your body while you soak up the views. Ultimately staying on your board is all about balance which is why instruction is necessary to keep you from taking a plunge, or learning the proper way to get back on your board if you do. Once you trust your legs, you’ll be exploring the Columbia River like a native.

The Sternwheeler is a more relaxed way to view the Gorge

Champagne

For those who prefer to watch the water and not be in it, Portland Spirit offers multiple river cruises, but the Sternwheeler, a replica of a traditional 1880s paddle wheeler which used to run these waters, offers a Sunday brunch cruise ($44 per person) as well as other food cruises. The two hour cruise explores parts of the Columbia River like the Bonneville Dam, the Bridge of the Gods, and the ramshackle fishing villages that line the banks, allowing you to view the river in ways you can’t by driving the Oregon or Washington highways which flank the River. The captain narrates a brief history about Lewis and Clark and the Native American Indians who once controlled these waters. The interior of the Sternwheeler is studded with historic photos of former ships and makes you realize that we’re blissfully lazy compared to what the early settlers endured, especially as you sip Champagne from the comfort of your chair. Brunch includes bottomless Champagne, eggs, bacon and sausage, home-style potatoes, shrimp, cheeses and it ends with a dessert course. This is an easy way to see and experience the Columbia Gorge effortlessly.

Villa Columbia B & B

Stay

There are no shortages of places to stay in the Gorge but with all the physical activity comfort is a priority. The Villa Columbia B&B in Hood River has great access to the river but it’s also within walking distance to wine tasting rooms, brew pubs and restaurants. The 100 year-old house has all its original hardwood, including built-ins. Breakfasts are served in the dining room with views to the Gorge, and snow capped Mt. Adams across the river in Washington State. Their six rooms offer wireless Internet, TVs, complimentary water, sodas, coffee and tea. For winter guests, they are only 30 minutes to skiing at Mount Hood. If you have your own bikes, rafts or kayaks they have storage underneath the house. Breakfasts feature area produce and the region is packed with orchards so you’ll get fresh apple juice, organic orange juice and some of the best fruit parfait imaginable.

GO

Wet Planet White Water: (www.wetplanetwhitewater.com)

Big Winds (www.bigwinds.com)

Portland Spirit (www.portlandspirit.com)

Villa Columbia B&B (www.villacolumbia.com)

Gorging on Wine: The Tasting Rooms of the Columbia River Gorge

Lines, real or imaginary, are critical to identifying states, nations and even vineyards. The Columbia Gorge AVA, which incorporates both Oregon and Washington states, became an official American Viticultural Area in 2009 and over 30 grape varieties are in the ground. The Columbia Gorge may not a wine area you’ve even heard of; Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Washington’s Yakima, and Walla Walla have a more well-known reputation. But the Columbia Gorge has 40+ wineries and they are banking on a steady flow of tourists, advocating their unusual and beautiful growing region, and providing terrific bank for the buck, where it’s uncommon to see bottle prices over $40. If you find yourself in the Columbia River Gorge, say touring the 90 or so waterfalls, rafting the White Salmon, paddle boarding, kite surfing or just wandering the scenic beauty, stop at one, or all of these tasting rooms and sample some terrific juice. Make sure you check the hours available (websites are listed below) and drop some cash for a bottle or two.



Nathan Ziegler at his vineyard



The Columbia River Gorge is a 1,200 mile river however the bulk of the wineries are concentrated near the town of Hood River, an hour east of Portland. Gorge wines have a truncated growing season, are susceptible to lots of rain, intermittent sunshine, cool temperatures and aggressive wind. In Washington Nathan Ziegler of Ziegler Vineyards is short on wine, but long on enthusiasm for wine and Underwood Mountain where his property is located. He currently pours only Pinot Gris and Tempranillo, though Nathan has planted the only known Grüner Veltiner in the state, as well as Riesling. His modest tasting room, actually his grandfather’s retirement house, has sweeping views of vineyards and the Columbia River and he has cheeses available as well. His son has a lemonade stand steps from the tasting room, so you might want to get a wee bit of lemonade, preferably after your wine tasting. Tasting Fee: $2

At the Memaloose tasting room situated on the banks of the Columbia River they are kicking out low alcohol wines, nothing over 13 percent, unusual by most winery standards. “We look for structure and acidity and our cooler temperatures give us that,” says Robert McCormick who knows food and wine from his days with McCormick Spices. “We have a European perspective; old world style; lower alcohol; we take what the vineyard gives us.” Memaloose and their sister label, Idiot’s Grace (I love that name), turn out exclusively Columbia Gorge wines including Primitivo, Cabernet Franc and Riesling. The tasting bar faces the river and if you’re inclined you can sit on the deck just above the water and be amazed at the views, and it’s really cool when the train runs by. Tasting fee: $5



Garrit Stoltz



Hood River, on Oregon’s side of the Columbia River Gorge is home to eight tasting rooms including Stoltz Vineyards where winemaker Garrit Stoltz, a Hood River native, sells the idea of a local making local wine. He routinely produces one barrel lots including Chardonnay and organic Pinot Noir, as well as the peculiar, though inviting, Portuguese variety Ferano Pires (also known as Maria Gomez) and the odd-ball Zweigelt. Therefore Stoltz is something of a renegade. Well, that and their tasting room used to be a funeral home. The beautiful old house turned mortuary turned tasting room has a picturesque view of the river, and was originally built as a model home to draw people to live here. Oh yeah, and he tells me when they bought the property they found an old body in the garage. But the wines are lively and from here you can walk to Cerulean Wine who uses fruit from both Oregon and Washington, to create a broad portfolio of wine

including Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, and Syrah among others and they use sustainable farming methods. Cerulean’s sleek downtown Hood River tasting has exposed brick walls counterbalanced with a reclaimed wood bar and hardwood floors. You’ll find their wines in several of the local restaurants as well. Tasting fee: $5



Franco Marchesi

Up the road, (you’ll need to drive) is Marchesi Vineyards where you can get onto the vine covered property and taste wine in their small tasting room out back. “When I arrived here in 2001 wine was a novelty,” says Franco Marchesi, originally from Italy. Now he has lots of company, but more wine in the Gorge, Marchesi believes, serves everyone, and that’s a fine attitude. He produces excellent Italian varieties including Sangiovese, Barbara and Dolcetto, among others, grown about a mile from the banks of the Columbia River, which used to be an apple orchard. He doesn’t use pesticides. He does cut some salami and other cured meats for people to have with his wines. Tasting fee: $5

Drink Up

www.ZieglerVineyardsEstate.com

www.WinesoftheGorge.com

www.MarchesiVineyards.com

www.StoltzVineyards.com

www.CeruleanWine.com

www.ColumbiaGorgeWine.com