SoO: The Wines of Southern Oregon

There is a saying that when people think of Oregon, they think of the three “Ps” - Portland, Precipitation and Pinot. Yes, there is rain; yes, Portland is the largest city in the state, and yes the main wine coming from here is Pinot Noir. But Oregon, specifically Southern Oregon, also excels at under-the-radar grape varieties an inherent natural beauty, and a road less traveled. Interstate 5 is the artery, which can quickly get you to multiple wine regions and off the beaten path. (Watch my video of Southern Oregon HERE).

Though it’s not always practical, it is essential to visit wine regions to experience firsthand the soil, the climate, people, the food, everything. You simply cannot understand a wine region by purchasing a bottle of wine off a shelf. Oregon is best known for the Willamette Valley and Pinot Noir, however the southern portion of the state, with regions like Umpqua Valley, Red Hills, and Rogue Valley, produce wine of greater diversity than Willamette.

“Pinot Noir is too expensive and Chardonnay is what my mom drinks,” Rob Folin of Folin Cellars in the Rogue Valley, tells Exploracation. Located 250 miles south of Portland, Folin and others like him, including the tiny God King Slave Wines are looking beyond conventional wines in order to make their voice heard. GSM blends (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre), and Spanish and Iberian varieties are what this southern half of the state is finding best expresses their landscape. But Oregon also faces unexpected weather variations and those fluctuations means that wines cannot be replicated year to year – a selling point for some, and a drawback for others. “Winemakers need to be more artisanal and less technical,” says Daniel Rinke of Johan Vineyards. His sentiment is expressed in probably what is the best white grape currently grown in Southern Oregon - Viognier - where its crisp acidity and less perfume characteristics make it a “loud mouth wine” as Rinke calls it, a sort of brash child who demands attention. Many Southern Oregon wineries are succeeding with Viognier including Kriselle Cellars, and Spangler Vineyards.

King Estate Winery

The largest single winery in all of Oregon is King Estate covering 470 acres planted predominately to Pinot Gris, their signature wine. They also have 14 acres of orchards, gardens and bee-keeping which provides food for their lunch and dinner restaurant, as well as local schools they donate a lot of food to. There’s also on-site bakery and charcuterie, an impressive winery and well worth visiting for the wine, the food and the views. Their standard offering is uniformly excellent. I had the chance to taste eight-year-old, and 13-year-old Pinot Gris on my visit both of which still showed extremely well - structured with engaging acids and citrus, caramel and melon flavors.

Pat Spangler (L) & Earl Jones (R) in Southern Oregon

Other wonderful wines come from Abacela and Spangler located in the Umpqua Valley. “If you're driving I-5 (the main highway running through the state) and you don't stop at exit 119 you're making a mistake,” says Pat Spangler. Of course he'd say something like that except that since his tasting room is there except he's correct. Both of these wineries are exemplary of what the mid-Oregon region can do. Pat was a beer drinker until a trip to Napa in 1989 caused him to switch to wine. He owns no vineyards and focuses on direct-to-consumer sales, all the more reason to visit first hand. His Viognier is a spot on example of what the grape can be; clean and viscous with minerality and subdued floral notes. His portfolio includes Grenache and Cabernet Franc.
 

The winery dog at Cowhorn,: biodynamic winery, blue eyed dog.

By contrast Earl Jones of Abacela Winery is distributed in 26 states and he uses all estate fruit because he doesn’t want to “buy other people's mistakes.” Jones is that type of man who does his due diligence and his climate research showed him that his site was uncannily similar to the Rieba del Douro where Tempranillo is king. So Jones carefully planted specific sites. “We're farming at the climactic edge of grape growing,” he says, due to the unpredictable weather patterns, which plague Southern Oregon. Jones may seem like he is pushing the envelope but he is practical as well. His property boarders a wildlife sanctuary and Abacela has a program called “zoo doo” whereby elephant dung is used as fertilizer for the vineyard. He is making terrific Tempranillo, a stunningly good Albariño (so close to those in Spain it will shock you), Malbec and a Tawney Port than will make you swoon.

It's always Friday the 13th at Valley View Winery!

For sheer fun, Valley View Winery near Jacksonville not only has terrific wines, but if you’re a fan of Friday the 13^th – you’ll need to visit. Does this seem like a non-starter? Well…in the original film the sole survivor of the massacre at Camp Crystal Lake was Alice Hardy, played by actress Adrienne King who moved to Oregon after Hollywood and worked for a time at Valley View Winery. Together, they created Crystal Lake Wines, which uses Valley View wines in unique labeled bottles, including a painting done by Adrienne of her character lying in a canoe on Crystal Lake. Jason’s creepy hockey-mask and One Sheets and other Friday the 13^th paraphernalia create a novelty shrine of Hollywood and Vine. You can pick up Survivor’s Syrah, and Cabin A Sauvignon to scare your friends. How cool is that?

Outside of McCully House in Jacksonville

If opening that wine is too scary then definitely pick up their Red Rogue wine, an everyday drinker for about $12, one of the best value wines I’ve ever had And a night’s stay at McCully House, a seven-room intimate B&B in the heart of downtown Jacksonville is comfortable without being cutesy; sophisticated and ideally situated within the walkable downtown core of Jacksonville.

Find other cool Oregon things here:

KingEstate Wine

ColumbiaGorge Wine

Video of Columbia Gorge Waterfalls 

Water-Logged: Wet and Wild - The Columbia River Gorge (Part 1

The Columbia River Gorge, a 1,243 mile water way cut into volcanic cliffs, is a natural border between Oregon and Washington. But it’s also a natural playground, with stunning rugged beauty near Hood River, an hour east of Portland. It’s here that Lewis and Clark concluded their epic cross-country journey in 1806, and where today, epic adventures await in and on the water. There is a recreational bonanza including white water rafting, stand-up paddle boarding, waterfalls (see part 2 of this post), food cruises, kite-boarding, kayaking and virtually anything you can do on water. There are water activities for adrenalin junkies, like plunging down a 14 foot waterfall, to junk food junkies who prefer merely watching water while noshing.

The White Salmon (photo: Wet Planet)

Rapidity

The White Salmon River cuts through Washington State and empties into the Columbia River near the town of Hood River, and the narrow canyons are home to class III and IV rapids and best of all for the adventurous, a 14 foot drop at Husum Falls. Wet Plant White Water (3 hour trip, $60) starts their trips at their own private put-in where they access further upriver than anyone else. Second, once you’re finished rafting, you’re at their office, just walk across the road and you’re done, no need to transport you back to where you started. Besides, after rafting for three hours you’re wet, tired and hungry and ready to get dry. The river is stunning in its beauty with volcanic rock banks and verdant green forests. Parts are calm and serene, and parts are frenetic a wild, but the whole of the river is breathtaking. Since there are no hiking trails here, you cannot see the river any better than rafting it. Drew Parker was my guide and led me through the Triple Drop, the Staircase, and other class III rapids that will flood you with the crystal clear water of the White Salmon. We stopped a few times to stretch our legs and at one point you have the option of leaping from a 17-foot drop into the river to your raft, or follow a land-based line back towards your raft.

Emerging from the falls (photo: Wet Planet)

Either way getting on land occasionally gives you a better understanding on the river. But you’re thinking about the waterfall and are you really going to make that drop in a raft? You’re trained for this moment, rehearsing exactly what to do with specific instructions from your guide: from when you approach the falls to what to do once you head down them. Your heart will beat faster, you’ll paddle like a madman and the time from when you descend to when you pop up out of the water is mere seconds, but those seconds see you plummeting down a cascading roar of water delving nearly face first into the White Salmon, totally submerged enveloping all of you, the cold, brisk water completely invigorating you. Never has so much water gone up my nose in so short a time. Popping up from the whirlpool our raft is like toast exiting a toaster. I’ve done the waterfall twice and it’s exhilarating, awesome and slightly nerve-wracking, but it’s just so cool. I highly recommend it!

Jim and I on the Columbia

Wavelengths

“If you can walk and swim, you can do this,” says Jim Stevens, who teaches stand up paddle boarding at Big Winds, based in Hood River. Classes are an hour and a half and show you the basics of paddling which requires more understanding than you might think. Their classes ($49 all inclusive) get you on the water in no time, cruising the Columbia River up close. If you’ve seen paddle boarding from shore you might wonder what the deal is. First, it’s a quiet non-invasive way to explore rivers, lakes, oceans and here, paddle across the Columbia River up into the White Salmon River. The other aspect is that it gives you a full body workout. How hard you paddle is up to you; break a sweat, or just cruise, but it will definitely tone your body while you soak up the views. Ultimately staying on your board is all about balance which is why instruction is necessary to keep you from taking a plunge, or learning the proper way to get back on your board if you do. Once you trust your legs, you’ll be exploring the Columbia River like a native.

The Sternwheeler is a more relaxed way to view the Gorge

Champagne

For those who prefer to watch the water and not be in it, Portland Spirit offers multiple river cruises, but the Sternwheeler, a replica of a traditional 1880s paddle wheeler which used to run these waters, offers a Sunday brunch cruise ($44 per person) as well as other food cruises. The two hour cruise explores parts of the Columbia River like the Bonneville Dam, the Bridge of the Gods, and the ramshackle fishing villages that line the banks, allowing you to view the river in ways you can’t by driving the Oregon or Washington highways which flank the River. The captain narrates a brief history about Lewis and Clark and the Native American Indians who once controlled these waters. The interior of the Sternwheeler is studded with historic photos of former ships and makes you realize that we’re blissfully lazy compared to what the early settlers endured, especially as you sip Champagne from the comfort of your chair. Brunch includes bottomless Champagne, eggs, bacon and sausage, home-style potatoes, shrimp, cheeses and it ends with a dessert course. This is an easy way to see and experience the Columbia Gorge effortlessly.

Villa Columbia B & B

Stay

There are no shortages of places to stay in the Gorge but with all the physical activity comfort is a priority. The Villa Columbia B&B in Hood River has great access to the river but it’s also within walking distance to wine tasting rooms, brew pubs and restaurants. The 100 year-old house has all its original hardwood, including built-ins. Breakfasts are served in the dining room with views to the Gorge, and snow capped Mt. Adams across the river in Washington State. Their six rooms offer wireless Internet, TVs, complimentary water, sodas, coffee and tea. For winter guests, they are only 30 minutes to skiing at Mount Hood. If you have your own bikes, rafts or kayaks they have storage underneath the house. Breakfasts feature area produce and the region is packed with orchards so you’ll get fresh apple juice, organic orange juice and some of the best fruit parfait imaginable.

GO

Wet Planet White Water: (www.wetplanetwhitewater.com)

Big Winds (www.bigwinds.com)

Portland Spirit (www.portlandspirit.com)

Villa Columbia B&B (www.villacolumbia.com)

Gorging on Wine: The Tasting Rooms of the Columbia River Gorge

Lines, real or imaginary, are critical to identifying states, nations and even vineyards. The Columbia Gorge AVA, which incorporates both Oregon and Washington states, became an official American Viticultural Area in 2009 and over 30 grape varieties are in the ground. The Columbia Gorge may not a wine area you’ve even heard of; Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Washington’s Yakima, and Walla Walla have a more well-known reputation. But the Columbia Gorge has 40+ wineries and they are banking on a steady flow of tourists, advocating their unusual and beautiful growing region, and providing terrific bank for the buck, where it’s uncommon to see bottle prices over $40. If you find yourself in the Columbia River Gorge, say touring the 90 or so waterfalls, rafting the White Salmon, paddle boarding, kite surfing or just wandering the scenic beauty, stop at one, or all of these tasting rooms and sample some terrific juice. Make sure you check the hours available (websites are listed below) and drop some cash for a bottle or two.



Nathan Ziegler at his vineyard



The Columbia River Gorge is a 1,200 mile river however the bulk of the wineries are concentrated near the town of Hood River, an hour east of Portland. Gorge wines have a truncated growing season, are susceptible to lots of rain, intermittent sunshine, cool temperatures and aggressive wind. In Washington Nathan Ziegler of Ziegler Vineyards is short on wine, but long on enthusiasm for wine and Underwood Mountain where his property is located. He currently pours only Pinot Gris and Tempranillo, though Nathan has planted the only known Grüner Veltiner in the state, as well as Riesling. His modest tasting room, actually his grandfather’s retirement house, has sweeping views of vineyards and the Columbia River and he has cheeses available as well. His son has a lemonade stand steps from the tasting room, so you might want to get a wee bit of lemonade, preferably after your wine tasting. Tasting Fee: $2

At the Memaloose tasting room situated on the banks of the Columbia River they are kicking out low alcohol wines, nothing over 13 percent, unusual by most winery standards. “We look for structure and acidity and our cooler temperatures give us that,” says Robert McCormick who knows food and wine from his days with McCormick Spices. “We have a European perspective; old world style; lower alcohol; we take what the vineyard gives us.” Memaloose and their sister label, Idiot’s Grace (I love that name), turn out exclusively Columbia Gorge wines including Primitivo, Cabernet Franc and Riesling. The tasting bar faces the river and if you’re inclined you can sit on the deck just above the water and be amazed at the views, and it’s really cool when the train runs by. Tasting fee: $5



Garrit Stoltz



Hood River, on Oregon’s side of the Columbia River Gorge is home to eight tasting rooms including Stoltz Vineyards where winemaker Garrit Stoltz, a Hood River native, sells the idea of a local making local wine. He routinely produces one barrel lots including Chardonnay and organic Pinot Noir, as well as the peculiar, though inviting, Portuguese variety Ferano Pires (also known as Maria Gomez) and the odd-ball Zweigelt. Therefore Stoltz is something of a renegade. Well, that and their tasting room used to be a funeral home. The beautiful old house turned mortuary turned tasting room has a picturesque view of the river, and was originally built as a model home to draw people to live here. Oh yeah, and he tells me when they bought the property they found an old body in the garage. But the wines are lively and from here you can walk to Cerulean Wine who uses fruit from both Oregon and Washington, to create a broad portfolio of wine

including Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, and Syrah among others and they use sustainable farming methods. Cerulean’s sleek downtown Hood River tasting has exposed brick walls counterbalanced with a reclaimed wood bar and hardwood floors. You’ll find their wines in several of the local restaurants as well. Tasting fee: $5



Franco Marchesi

Up the road, (you’ll need to drive) is Marchesi Vineyards where you can get onto the vine covered property and taste wine in their small tasting room out back. “When I arrived here in 2001 wine was a novelty,” says Franco Marchesi, originally from Italy. Now he has lots of company, but more wine in the Gorge, Marchesi believes, serves everyone, and that’s a fine attitude. He produces excellent Italian varieties including Sangiovese, Barbara and Dolcetto, among others, grown about a mile from the banks of the Columbia River, which used to be an apple orchard. He doesn’t use pesticides. He does cut some salami and other cured meats for people to have with his wines. Tasting fee: $5

Drink Up

www.ZieglerVineyardsEstate.com

www.WinesoftheGorge.com

www.MarchesiVineyards.com

www.StoltzVineyards.com

www.CeruleanWine.com

www.ColumbiaGorgeWine.com